Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Camp GLOW 2013!

17 August 2013

Last week I directed South Oromia’s Camp GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) which was attended by 12 Peace Corps volunteers, 9 Ethiopian counterparts and 21 8-9th grade female students. We selected only females of these grades because they will all be high school students next year. High school is a difficult time for girls in Ethiopia as their studies become more demanding so do their responsibilities with house chores and pressures for them to get married and drop out of school also increase.  Our main focus for this week of camp was self-confidence, good communication, HIV/AIDs and safe sex awareness, team work, strength, goal setting and creative writing. Here are some pictures from the week.

Discussing how the girls define "self-esteem"

Two of our amazing counselors who joined us at camp

Peer pressure skit

Self-esteem collages

We made it to the top of the mountain!

The whole camp before our hike



Highlights included a hike up Mt. Gelama, an enormous obstacle course, a professional women panel discussion, hilarious condom demonstration (included interactive song and dance), HIV + music band who came and performed songs and skits. On our final day we held a giant bonfire where we had the campers throw in their “I can’t” lists they had made earlier in the week, the act of incineration would symbolize  that over the camp they had gained skills and self-confidence so that all they had listed the first day as things they felt were their weaknesses had since been invalidated; the fire would devour their doubts in themselves, leaving them only with an “I CAN” attitude. I noticed one girl didn’t throw her “I Can’t” envelope in the fire and I asked her to do so, but she refused. I figured she was still holding on to doubts and negativity so I started in on a big speech about how amazing she is and that she needs to cast her self-doubts away. She replied “No, that’s not it at all” and she read her note inside the envelope which said ‘I can do anything I set myself to’. Apparently, some of the girls at camp didn’t need the self confidence boost as much as others.

It was an amazing week of fun and learning for EVERYONE, even the adult counselors who were teaching. I learned many new dance moves, gained several fantastic friends, got my first cornrow braids and only got thrown-up on once during the week. What a success! 

I look terrible terrible in braids but they feel so awesome.

24 hours of normal lunacy

Being a PCV has been more of an emotional roller coaster than I could have ever imagined. In America, or what I refer to as my "real" life, I considered myself to be a pretty stable and consistent adult. Ethiopia has brought out the scrappy 9-year old Bridget I used to be. Where I would pick fights, throw sass around and spend a lot of time in my bedroom dreaming about who I would be when I grew up. Well at 26 I didn't expect myself to become so familiar with niave and irratic inner child, but my life here has led me to discover that in order to survive living in chaos you must be insane yourself. Below is a brief documentary of a 24-hour period I experience recently. 

2 June 2013
6:00 pm: Paid $9 for my 1 hour full body massage
Feeling: calm and content
Thinking: money well spent

6:15: Mistook a monkey to be an alley cat
Feeling: surprised and enchanted
Thinking: Ethiopia is still awesome

8:30: In the middle of an unusual and very detailed dinner conversation of how the 7th day Adventists started in Ethiopia 3 generations ago.
                Feeling: Amused and informed 
                Thinking: That pizza was delicious

10:00 Almost asleep except for the neighbor’s subwoofers and the barking dog. Soft spanish guitar in my headphones lulls me to sleep

                Feeling: too tired to yell at the neighbor
                Thinking: I wish I could find my earplugs

7:00am  Got caught walking in the early morning rainstorm and enjoyed the company of the street dogs

                Feeling: carefree and nostalgic
                Thinking: Puppy season is the best time of year in Ethiopia

8:00 received a long distance call from my dad and watched Amanda serve the sassy waitress a piece of her mind (no it was not on the menu)

                Feeling: loved and homesick,
                Thinking: Amanda is serious about her breakfast!

9:00 Paid 15% of my monthly salary to fill my propane tank; now I have 25kg/55lbs on my back and 2 buses worth of travel before I can get it home

                Feeling: Poor and apprehensive
                Thinking: I wish I had a private vehicle
10: Saw a man defecating on the side of the road. Rejected bus creeper’s attempts to initiate me in conversation.  
                Feeling: violated and nauseous
                Thinking: Ethiopia’s development goals are highly ambitious

11: After moving my heavy propane tank from 4 different vehicles I’m on the last leg in Shashamene. My onerous tank become the subject of controversy in the bus station: confusing argument in 4 different spoken languages leads to aggressive behavior in belligerent macho men and ends with me physically assaulting the figure of contention by way of my palm across his face.
                Feeling: adrenaline and dissapointment
                Thinking: I wish I could communicate more effective verbally than physically

2pm: Arrived at home in time to miss the rainstorm and in time to enjoy a cup of coconut hot chocolate and the first grapefruit I’ve eaten in 8 months.
                Feeling: relieved, introverted, exhausted
                Thinking: Home is the only place I can have privacy and peace

4pm: Skyped with Joe and counted down the days until his arrival
                Feeling: Adored
                Thinking: August 19th can’t come soon enough



Thursday, June 20, 2013

The girl who brings me flowers

17 June 2013

Every morning I receive a visitor, a small head of braids with big brown eyes peeps through my front window “B!” she sends out her greeting and we run through all of her short English phrases within a minute:

“Good morning Loomii. How are you?”

“Good morning. I am fine.”

“Would you like a banana?”

“A yellow banana? Yes!”

I invite her inside my small home, a place that offers refuge for her, where she can be unseen and not called to work, but instead spend her time coloring, enjoying books, movies and dance the afternoon away. She steps out of her broken plastic sandals and embraces me. When I first met Loomii she didn’t know how to receive a hug. She would run to greet me, her arms spread wide and as we met and I wrapped myself around her she would stand there, arms limp against her stiff body, enjoying the affection but unsure of how to return it. Now she’s a master of hugs which are a fantastic compliment to her beautiful smile and I get plenty of both each day.

When I moved into my house I noticed Loomii immediately because she was always fetching water from the spout outside my door. Where did she live? Who did she live with? Eventually I learned that she lived on my compound in a small shack out back, but I saw no family that cared for her as made evident by her perpetually filthy clothes and independence. After inquiring to the people who share my compound I learned that Loomii moved to Adaba 3-4 years ago, when she was around 6 or 7 years old. Her parents and siblings reside in Kokoso, a small village about a 4 hour drive away. She moved to Adaba to help her old petulant uncle with house chores as he never married and has no immediately family. For Loomii’s parents, giving her away was financially a smart decision as they could not afford to send her to school and provide for her other essential needs. At 6 years old, Loomii moved out of her family’s home and into a world adult hood.
In Adaba she began going to Catholic school, which offers free tuition for many students. After school Loomii would come home to help wash, cook, run errands and clean for people on the compound. An Ethiopian version of Cinderella. She quickly learned her second language, Amharic, as her mother tongue Oromiifa, was not spoken by many people she interacted with. She adapted, matured and made the most of life without her family.


Loomii always intrigued me because she is sweet and respectful, unlike 95% of rural Ethiopian children. She never begged or expected much. She never cried or carried herself with anything other than a smile and patience, yet it seemed that she had every excuse to do otherwise. For these reasons and more it didn’t take long for me to fall in love with Loomii.

We started sharing meals together, as it was evident that she needed the nutrition and calories. She taught me some Amharic and Oromiifa and I helped her with English. We colored together and I read books to her. Before much time had passed Loomii was taking warm water baths in my home, I was washing her clothes and helping her study.  In return she would indulge me with short stemmed flowers she picked on her walk home from school. Through these small expressions of love Loomii and I have bonded immensely.

It may sound crazy, but I have considered adopting Loomii. She deserves so much more and I worry that she won’t meet her potential. I worry that no one in her life will advocate for her and that she may get pulled out of school early. I worry that she won’t get enough affection, nutrition and emotional support. I worry that she may never realize how amazing she is and how bright her future could be. However, compared to many children in Ethiopia, especially in Adaba, Loomii’s situation is good and I have spent much of my 2 years here trying to help her succeed. I am convinced that pulling her out of her country, culture,  and further away from her hodge-podge “family” would be more harmful to her spirit.
Loomii with her cousin Rama (left) and another kid who briefly lived on our compound.

My recipe for loving Loomii is affection, good food, attention and compliments. I believe that these things will help Loomii grow up healthy and happy. Her height is measured monthly against the dingy paint on my door and quarter inch marks reveal her rapid maturity. We stroll around town, hand in hand as children approach
wishing to join our parade and Loomii corrects them by saying in Amharic “Her name is not ‘ferengi’ or ‘china’ don’t be rude” and we smugly walk away. She stands up for me, and once after I witnessed her uncle physically attacked her, I had the opportunity to stick up for her too. We are each others’ alibis.

I transferred Loomii to the best primary school in Adaba. A private school with small class sizes, the only one where kids attend full day instead of half, and the teachers stay late to help with extracurricular activities. Loomii loves her new school and has made a lot of great friends. For an annual enrollment fee of 100 birr ($6) and a uniform for 250 birr ($15) Loomii’s education has had a dramatic upgrade. At 9 years old she has just finished kindergarten; her graduation program is at the end of the June. From grade 1-8 I will set up a fully funded scholarship so that she can stay in school and no one will have an excuse to remove her. I’m hoping after 8th grade, at 17 years old, she will be confident enough to stand up for herself. To insist that her education is important, that she is important, and she wants to continue to high school.
Loomii and her best friend Mituu at school.


When I leave I don’t know how to keep in contact with Loomii. She’s too young and our communication is too poor for me to tell her that I will leave, forever, that I want to be in contact with her, but until she gets a phone or e-mail or understands the post system this will not be possible. I don’t want her to forget me or to think that I could ever forget her. I want to make her a photo album of our 2 years together and write a message for her in the back. Maybe when she’s older and can read English fluently she will know that that ferengi called “B” was more than just a food vendor. That crazy white girl adores you and hopes that your life is fulfilling, full of people who love and respect you, full of mystery that is welcoming and not daunting, and unlike the hundreds of other people who have asked me, that YOU, Loomii, do have a sponsor in America if you wish to immigrate or join University across the Atlantic. Maybe 12 years from now I will get a long distance phone call in America from a woman named Loomii When I say “hello” she will greet me brightly, “B!”. 

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

The motherland of coffee

5 June 2013

Traditional Ethiopian clay coffee pot.

After oil, coffee is the second most exchanged commodity in the world. It’s the fuel that keeps many societies working; the reason why so many of can even begin to consider rolling out of bed each morning. If you’re a coffee drinker, you might be interested to learn that Ethiopia is the motherland of coffee.
Cafe arabica originates from Western Ethiopia in the Kafa zone. The local legend says that many years ago a peasant was herding his livestock and began to notice them expressing strange, erratic behavior. Upon closer observation he noticed that they had been eating leaves from an unfamiliar tree. He picked the tree leaves and cooked them for himself, experiencing a more energetic feeling after consumption of the brew. Ethiopian today use the leaves, fruit hulls and fruit seeds as a stimulant which is prepared by first drying, roasting, crushing and boiled with water. The seeds are most commonly used in other countries, but many parts of the plant contain caffeine and a taste great.

Green coffee beans and their dried exterior hulls.
Both of which make a delicious beverage.

Recently a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve was established in the Kafa zone of Ethiopia to protect around 200,000 ha of natural forest where the wild coffee grows (kafa-biosphere.com). This area is intended to be left under conservation so that the coffee may grow naturally without any human interference thus the genetic integrity and evolution of coffee is maintained. If cultivation and domestication of coffee ever goes awry with disease or pest problems (as seen with other popular crops including bananas) the Kafa Biosphere will be the saving grace. If left to grow and evolve naturally, plants such as coffee will have enough genetic diversity in their wild stock to have resilience against many pests and diseases. This biosphere in Ethiopia is a gift to the world, because without it if there ever was a disastrous coffee epidemic we could find ourselves caffeine fiends without our beloved morning buzz.

The majority of US adults are coffee drinkers. (Duh!) Many people never make their own coffee but purchase it instead. Many people are satisfied with instant coffee, some buy it pre-ground, and others do that “work” themselves each morning. But how many of you have roasted coffee yourself? In Ethiopia, coffee preparation starts from green beans every time. Here’s a step by step of the coffee roasting process.

1) Wash the beans at least 3 times and pick out all the ugly ones.


2) Roast them over medium heat until they crack, swell, become oily, smoke and smell delicious




3) Boil water in “jebinah” (local coffee pot), add ground coffee and boil again. After steam is visible let the jebinah sit at an angle until all the coffee grinds have settled. Pour coffee slowly into “seenies” (teenie-tiny cups).
My friend Tarikwa preparing a coffee ceremony at her home. 

If Ethiopians were into poly deism, coffee would be up there with Jesus Christ himself because Ethiopians worship coffee. Typically a “bunna mafla” (full coffee ceremony) takes 1 hour from start to finish and happens about 2-3 times a day in any given Ethiopian household. I wake up and go to sleep each day hearing the pounding of the beans being ground and smelling the coffee boil from my neighbor’s home. Watching an Ethiopian celebrate coffee each time they gently wash it, patiently roast it and slowly drink it (2 ounces at a time) makes me a little sad for my American culture. We consume more coffee than most countries in the world but do we really appreciate it? We have the opportunity to give more economic power and benefit to the farmers and countries that produce this substance we are so overwhelmingly addicted to, but we don’t. We buy it in bulk, we drink it like water but many do not know what a coffee tree looks like, where it originates from or how to make coffee from the start of a green bean to the delectable finish. But now YOU do!

I encourage you reassess and better appreciate your early morning friend, and give a big Halleluiah to Ethiopia, the motherland of coffee (Is it a coincidence that Ethiopia is also considered “the cradle of humanity?”)


P.S. Buy some Ethiopian coffee and let me know what you think!

Rainy season commences

3 June 2013

The big rainy season, known as “Krimpt,” is my favorite time of year in Ethiopia! Here are a few reasons why:

    • ·         Kids caught in the rain pull up their shirt collars over their head to protect themselves from getting wet. All I see is a bunch of mini Bevis and Buttheads running around. Fan-tastic!
      ·         It’s the only time I don’t feel bad for women wearing burkas.
      ·         When the rain falls Adaba doesn’t smell like S@#%.
      ·         I don’t have to worry about my school gardens or tree nurseries that always need watering.
      ·         The streets vacate as everyone escapes the rain. The rare and beloved silence is relaxing.
      ·         There is no guilt when I spend all afternoon writing letters and reading.
      ·         I love Ramadan and the rain means it’s almost here! 


Tuesday, May 28, 2013

coming around...

I’ve been absent for a long time, probably most of my blog followers have given up on me and found more maintained blogs with better pictures, stories and grammar. My apologies to those of you who know me personally and enjoy my blog because it’s one of the few avenues you can stay connected to me (maybe I’m giving myself to much credit?). So here’s a blog for those who still bother checking: including photos and personal details: stuff that entertaining blogs are made out of!
 
(I've been busy exploring Ethiopia)
The truth of the matter is that for many months I struggled with something unfamiliar to me, and could be categorized by others as depression/self-absorption/laziness or a unwelcome reality check. Put simply, I got burnt out by Ethiopia. Fortunately I had a long series of visitors over the past 6 months all of whom came to visit me at my site and experience life as I know it here. Highlights include:

When Brett played guitar and sang for students at the primary school with me. We wrote a song together and the students still sing it with me when I work at the school. Hopefully they understood the message and are more inclined to wash their hands, eat vegetables and say please and thank you. Before he came to visit Brett was mostly a friend of a friend but I’m delighted to know that I have a great friend to go paragliding and mountain bike with when I return to Missoula!
Me and Brett wandering around the fields outside of my town.

Enjoying Lake Awassa with our very knowledgeable and unsuspecting bird guru.


John and Shana came to visit me in February and what an adventure we had. I don’t for see me having such long string of exotic expeditions ever again. Memorable and humors events are a guarantee whenever John’s around, and it was only made better by his lovely lady Shana who taught me a lot about being graceful in Africa and relishing each moment. We covered a lot in a short period of time and were all totally worn out by the end of it. Thanks for helping me re-discover Ethiopia Shana and John.
Bale Mountains National Park

Next up was Hayley, 

one of my best pen-pals since I arrived and the only friend I actually believed when she said she was coming to visit during my PC service. Hayley was the only person who could calm me when I was worked up and scared about moving to Ethiopia. She assured me that I could not have had better luck than to be place in the Horn of Africa, and I think she was right. Hayley and I had 2 weeks in Ethiopia where we got lucky enough to see a wild leopard, hippos, Ethiopian wolves and the elusive honey badger. To wrap up our time together we went to Zanzibar (which again I was reluctant to do and she talked me into it; she always seems to know what is best for me). The pictures will reveal that Zanzibar is absolutely the most beautiful place ever, with wonderful people and all the nonsense fun that a bundle of low-budget travelers could hope for.  We hit all the tourist spots, sampled everything from the ocean buffet and are all determined to end up there again someday soon. Forget San Francisco, I left my heart in Zanzibar. Hayley, Katheryn and I made great travel partners and feel confident that we will stir up trouble somewhere else soon.
Stone Town

Stone Town's windy back streets always leave you happily disoriented

Picturesque beaches of Nungwi

On the way to Memba island

Getting up close and personal with the oldest extant animals in the world!


Most recently my dad and step-aunt, Beverly came to visit for a whopping 3 weeks! I made sure they got the full experience of near-death minibus rides, nasty hotel rooms, bus station chaos and plenty of rainy weather. We also had a lot of luxuries that I was grateful for including private vehicles, fancy hotels, in country flights and constant cribbage partners. It was a very busy couple of weeks but I’m really happy that we filled our schedule so they could meet so many of my Ethiopian and PC friends, experience rural life, learn that Ethiopia is very lush and mountainous and give me the encouragement to finish my last 6 months here strong.
Like father like daughter

Hiking in Bale Mountains National Park

We make great travel companions together!

The next visitors that I look forward to receiving is my ever-beloved friend from high school, Sarah, who wants to have it really rough here so that she returns extra motivated before she starts her PhD program this fall. Don’t worry Sarah, I’ll make sure that you are eager to leave and spend the next 4 years living under florescent lights and chasing deadlines. No problem! I promise I’ll leave the embarrassing “congratulations on your transgender operation Sarah Sam” sign at home this time when I pick you up at the airport. You’re going to love Ethiopia and I can’t wait to see you!

2011 was too long ago!

Last but not least, my favorite Montana gentleman is coming, a.k.a. JOE! Despite the mileage, poor internet access and turmoil Joe still thinks I’m worth sticking around for. Ladies and gentleman please give this man a pat on the back, a tip of the hat or a high five if you see him because I adore him and he’s a stand-up guy for staying by my side. Ethiopia will be a great reunion for us and hopefully the first of many travels we will share together.


To encourage me to keep writing blog posts, please put your suggestions below! 

Friday, May 24, 2013

e-mail to my academic advisor


Hello Steve,
Thank you for the e-mail informing me of what to expect when I return to school next year. I’m eager to wrap things up, mostly because of the financial aspect, but I know that I also need to be realistic and it is my priority to complete an outstanding thesis that I’m proud of and positively contributes to the people and places I’ve grown to love here in Ethiopia.

Regarding my thesis, many things have become jumbled. The shortened version is that the bamboo company I was involved with went bankrupt due to corruption and organizational issues. Fortunately I was working under an independent contractor and our assignment will be finished according to the original contract and handed off to local and international stakeholders. The work I have been involved with was helping to write and execute HH surveys, input and analyze data and finally to co-write the EIA report for both bamboo forest areas.

It has been a tremendous learning opportunity for me to see the challenges businesses face here in Ethiopia. This specific business was striving to create an ethical development project with admirable benefits for involved communities and bamboo forests. The concept appeared idyllic on paper and was very inspiring work in the beginning, but now that someone is incarcerated, 90% of the staff was let go (unpaid),  and the involved Ethiopian communities are very confused and unimpressed I have little hope that the business will survive. What a tornado of activity I’ve witnessed in the last 8 months! Fortunately I was just along for the ride and managed to obtain experience and information that will help me complete a thesis and hopefully prevent me from being a victim of incompetent employers in the future.

With that said, I have access to social, economic and ecological data from 2 different communities who rely heavily on bamboo for their livelihoods. Unfortunately for my previous project idea, it was recommended that I do not return to the communities to collect ecological data ( I wanted to conduct a bamboo forest inventory analysis) because it may further confuse the community and disrupt relationships. I agree with this suggestion and will work with the SEB and EIA information that I have. Potentially I’m thinking about writing a case study comparing these two communities and the potential of bamboo utilization and marketing in Ethiopia. I need to brainstorm some more and organize my ideas to settle on a more specific thesis plan.
For now at least, I wanted to respond to your e-mail and let you know:
  • ·         I intend to graduate sometime in 2014
  • ·         Ethiopia is constantly chaotic and full of life lessons
  • ·         My thesis has veered off track, but I am confident that I’m on the brink of some great ideas
  • ·         After all your years at University of Montana as an advisor, I’m sure none of this information surprises you
  • ·         I anticipate when you return from sabbatical we can laugh about all of this over beer and you can tell me your own shocking stories of promising research projects gone sour


Best, Bridget