Thursday, November 21, 2013

Hair Care(less).

Hair styles are varied in Ethiopia, from men to women and all the children, everyone has something different. Here are some of the most entertaining hairstyles that I've captured on camera.

If you turn a wig inside out this is what the stitching looks like.
My favorite part is the little tail coming out the crown of her head.

Rat tails are still in style for Ethiopian boys

Loomi after she took her braids out
Mituu with her Tigray region bumps

Once, I braided Loomi's hair for school. Not to bad ehh? 
Tigray girl who hiked with me, the thin cornrows are traditional,
 the dread locks are her own style.
My fellow PCVs in the Tigray region took it upon themselves to experience Ethiopian beauty salon magic.
 Yes, that is a lot of yellow weave!



I had a moment of trepidation about leaving Ethiopia, so my friend Burtukan braided my hair. It seemed like a worthy activity at the time, but obviously is not something I should have explored. It's not a look I plan on repeating, but plenty of laughs were had from it. You're welcome.

This is after I took out my cornrows. It looks like I'm a librarian addicted to prescription drugs.
 Again, it's not a look I plan on repeating or a lifestyle I will adopt, but it gives plenty of laughs. You're welcome.

Thursday, November 7, 2013

How to make a world map!

Starting fresh! 
All the world oceans
South America is penciled out
Recruit friends to help make the mundane work more fun


Joe starting to paint
We recruited Ibsa to help us paint, over 200 countries takes a lot of time.
All the countries are painted and our little friends approve!



Labeling, labeling labeling

Labeling, labeling, labeling...
Finished product! 

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Bad signs

These are poorly written signs that I have seen in Ethiopia. I hope they make you laugh as much as they did me. (This blog idea was taken from my friend Stasia, who is serving in Peru.)
Turns out this organization works on food security and tree nurseries that generate income for vulnerable women and children; an ideal work counterpart for me in my town. Unfortunately, I only recently was able to read their sign and figure out what they call themselves. There are no cognates between English and Oromiifa for "Action for basic development initiatives." This is the worst attempt I've seen for written English.



I'm not much for hamburgers, but this one looks especially unappetizing.

A "perception desk" is not a bad idea.


Public litter boxes would be an improvement in Ethiopia, but alas they don't actually exists.
Birds as transportation? 

Just bad advertising. 

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Meet my neighbors: part II

4 November 2013

“Peaceful Fruit”

With a name like “Peaceful Fruit” one would find it hard to believe that Freissalaam is so much trouble. At 3 years old he’s asserted his dominance between the 30 meters of street in front of his house. Few cows, sheep, goats, horses, donkeys or children go unattended to. From sun up until sun down my little friend runs wild. Mostly it’s his mom that suffers from his poor behavior and antics. Fortunately for Freissalaam, he’s cute...
REALLY cute!


Along with the mosque and the Orthodox Church, Freissalaam is one of the main reasons I wear ear plugs at night. Without them I would probably average only 4 hours of uninterrupted sleep per night. I don’t know when Peaceful Fruit sleeps because whenever I’m awake, I hear him. I hear him harassing the livestock. I hear him bossing around his friends. I hear him pretending to cry when he’s disciplined. And most of the time I hear his mother:

SALAAM, quarta mei!!” (SALAAM! Come to me)

This is repeated about 6 times before she just hauls off on him and starts yelling and screaming high pitch noises and chasing him down the street; shortly thereafter I hear him crying and hitting things to vent his frustration. From the comfort (but no peace) inside my home, I can identify all the neighbor children by the sound of their crying and tantrums. I know each of them for their unique build-up, their chorus, I know when it’s fake and when it’s real and I know their mother’s response. It is like musical theater, one that would never sell tickets or gather a gratifying audience.

Looking cool in Amanda's sunglasses

My favorite part of having all these noisy, needy children as my neighbors is not their cacophony of cries, or that they’re always sticky, snotty and pooping in the middle of the road, my favorite part of all these kiddos is how sweet they are to me. As soon as I leave my compound, no matter how discrete I try to be, I am quickly spotted.


B!!”   Shouts the first witness, then like a stampede of clumsy puppies they come running towards my kneecaps. In a remarkably short amount of time I am surrounded, as if trapped in quicksand, I lose mobility, I feel trapped. The more I resist the tighter they squeeze. At least once a week they share fleas with me, but as a lonely foreigner who doesn’t receive much affection, I dismiss any concerns about flea bites and hug them back, rubbing their small backs, tickling their necks and scratching their rough and untidy hair. Their giggles and lingering embrace lets me know that they appreciate the extra affection too. We finish our group huddle with some fist-bombs, bumping our knuckles together when I command them with “gitch!” which means fist. Many of the children will kiss their knuckles after they pull them away from mine and tap their chest. This is a version of street slang and hoodlums that I can hang with.


Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Awkward encounters

22 October 2013

On my way to a nearby town I sat next to a man who began to berate me with all the common questions Ethiopians ask foreigners:

“Where are you go?”                                                                     “Where do you live?”
“Can you speak Amharic?”
“What is your job?”
“Can you help me immigrate to your country?”
“How is Ethiopia?”
“Which language is better Amharic or Oromiifa?”

Finally it came to my marital status because he noticed I wear a gold band on my left hand. I spoke my standard lies: “Yes, I am married. He is not an Ethiopian. He lives in America. He has a job.” Then we moved into more linguistically complicated territory:

“Do you have children?”

I have enough language skills to say “no” or “I am too young” but because I like to subtly confuse and upset Ethiopians from time to time I sometimes enjoy lying to these annoying and intimate questions. Most of the time I say “I don’t want children. They are dirty, expensive and they cry too much.” This normally is a sufficient answer because the interrogator is so dumbfounded they can’t continue the conversation. However, this stranger with 20 questions sitting next to me was not put-off. “Do you and your husband have sex anyway?” “What’s the point of being married if you’re not going to have children?” The questions went on and on until I finally said “Actually, I wouldn’t mind having children, but my health is not good and to tell you the truth, I’m barren.” I looked down at my stomach and touched it softly as I let the words sink into his brain. When I looked up again he said “okkkaayy…” as he diverted his eyes and let the tidal wave of awkwardness hit him. Like a magical spell, my over-curious bus mate got quiet and the conversation was over. Why didn’t I think of this brilliant line 24 months ago?

It doesn’t take much time before the coin changes sides in Ethiopia and the revenge of the awkward silence found me when I least expected it. Today, I was shopping at the small corner stores around my house buying ingredients to make banana bread. As I waited for my neighbor to collect eggs a crazy man came up and asked me to buy him cigarettes. I ignored him but he lingered there as I stood, unable to leave, waiting for my eggs. I held my bag tightly, checked that my phone was secure in my pocket and prepared myself for anything. Then BAM! Without any sudden movements his pants fell down! He stood there motionless and un-phased, though he must have felt some draft of cool air. I turned quickly and faced the fence as I tried to pass time by calculating the days until I get to move out of my town.




Justice in Adaba

21 October 2013

Last week during market day there was a big commotion on the main road of Adaba. Typically that is where all the excitement happens as we only have 1 asphalt road which makes it a near constant and chaotic scene of loitering, traffic, horse taxis and young boys selling roasted barley, sugar cane, lottery tickets and shoe shines. I avoid the main road as much as possible unless I’m riding my bike which makes me faster and therefore difficult target for getting involved in nonsense which usually consists of thrown rocks, sexual harassment and awkward conversations. Never the less, I don’t need to be hanging out on the road to hear about what happens there. In a town as small as Adaba, word travels fast.

As the story goes, an Isuzu truck was parked on the side of the road, the driver was waiting in the cab. In an act of anger, a high school student threw a rock through the side window of the truck. This student was did not fit the stereotype of Adaba’s best trouble makers: a young and attractive female Muslim girl. It became aware to the local police that it wasn’t a random act, but that this young woman and the driver knew each other. At the police station authorities tried to determine who would pay for the broken window. They first asked the perpetrator to explain herself.  She elucidated that this driver had been involved with her, but recently she discovered that he had a wife and children at home. Irate at his deception and ego she took her first opportunity to seek revenge and publicly expose his shameful character. The police asked the man if her accusations against him were honest and he confessed that it was true. It was determined then that the man was at fault for the broken window and would pay for replacement as he provoked the young woman to throw the rock.

As for the young woman, I think she should get a status a-kin to that of Rosa Parks in Adaba. Hopefully the duriye (good for nothing) driver gets worse treatment from his wife at home.



Saturday, October 19, 2013

Born Free

11 October 2013


During a visit home-stay family we took an excursion to the Born Free foundation just outside of Menagesha. When I lived there people would tell me “there are lions here” as they pointed off to some obscure point in the forest. I brushed them off, thinking they were re-telling fables, exaggerating or mistranslated “lion” for a smaller wild feline (People often tell me about the “tigers” in Bale, yet there are no tigers in Africa. I think they mean to say leopard, but don’t know the difference). My friend Millian, a popular tourguide, works part time there and offered to show us the animal rehabilitation center. 


Born Free is an organization which rescues and rehabilitates animals that have been taken from the wild as pets. The end goal is to re-release them into the wild again if no injury or development issues prevent it. I was struck by how serene and beautiful the compound was. I feared it would seem like a zoo, but instead it was all natural vegetation with no concrete. The confinements were spread apart from one another and the animals were given abundant space in their areas. The walk in between animal habitats was a short hike through brush and trees where Millian identified different birds, rodents and the tortoises who languidly munched away.

Most of the animals were taken from Jijiga, the capital of Ethiopia's eastern Somalie region. This area has a lot of wild animals being taken as pets because it is close to the D'jibouti/Somalie border where they are taken across the Red Sea. The animals are frequently sold to wealthy Arabs in the Middle East. Most commonly this is the case with Cheetahs, who I learned are not that aggressive, but rather sweet, enormous house cats. As Millian was telling us how this group of cheetahs were discovered, he reached his hand into the fencing where two male cheetahs walked towards him and began purring as he scratched their ears. I asked if I could also try my luck at making a cheetah purr, and he winced explaining that since they aren't familiar with me it might not be very safe. I have never seen cheetahs so closely, and even as an animal enthusiast I have never fully appreciated, until now, how gorgeous they are. If I were wealthy and without better ethics I would also be tempted to own a cheetahs as a house cat. 

We also saw 5 Abyssinian lions. Most of who will not be able to return to the wild due to the harm done from their previous owners.


One lion had striking blue eyes which I learned had been the result of nerve damage from a too-tight collar which the owners were afraid to adjust as the animals grew from a cub to an adult. The two mature males showed their stunning black manes, a unique feature of the Abyssinia lion found only in Ethiopia. Previously the original name for Ethiopia was Abyssinia, named after this rare sub-species. These lions are a national symbol known as the Lion of Judah, made most famous by Emperor Haile Sellassie and henceforth the Rastafarian community.  Like the Cheetahs, I was struck by the beauty of these creatures, but refrained from sticking my hand into the fence to see if I could make them purr.


Born Free works throughout Ethiopia to control animal trafficking and also to support the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Project. The day at their animal sanctuary was eye opening to see the commitment the organization is making to improve conservation of these precious African creatures.



Thursday, October 17, 2013

Anchi! Wadishalo

11 October 2013

In 7  weeks I will complete my service as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Ethiopia. For 22 of these months I have lived alone traversed through language and cultural obstacles. Without my amazing home-stay family, who I lived with the first 10 weeks in country, these obstacles would have been more difficult to clear. Several times through my service I’ve returned to visit them. I’ve noticed my parents make career advancements; both have traveled to South Africa to represent Ethiopia in international medical conventions. My 11 year old sister has transferred to a more rigorous school which she commutes alone to each day on a public bus into Addis Ababa. When I first arrived her English was very basic, but she now speaks easily and with great confidence. My 22 year old brother who had only started college is now a junior engineering student at the military school. My aunt finished her master’s degree this summer after several years of working full time and attending classes. I am extremely proud to see them each have their individual successes which make the family a stronger unit. They are an upstanding and hard working family who represent the best of Ethiopian cultural and the country’s potential.



Unfortunately, not all change has been good. The beloved family dog Jack, who was a favorite friend of mine during those first few months, was eaten by a pack of hyenas last year. More recently my uncle passed away due to alcohol related illnesses earlier this spring. May they both rest in peace.

 Though the time I’ve spent here has seemed quick, I consider all of these changes and realize how significant 2 years are. No single individual has proved this more than my beloved home-stay sister Guza-guz. Also known to me as the most adorable child alive!

When I moved into my home-stay family’s house Guz was only 8 months old. She spent most of her days
wrapped tightly against her mother’s broad back asleep to the laundry, cooking and sweeping that kept her mother busy all day. By the time I left the house her first 4 teeth had arrived, only adding more charm to her smile. I returned 4 months later at Easter to a toddler who was crawling busily and had doubled her pearly whites. The next visit, 6 months later she was mobile and alert! Instead of being swaddled, she spent most of her time she spent walking, dancing and feeding me food helpings (a cultural practice called “gorsha”) from her small palms.
Another long stretched passed without much contact between me and my family until one holiday when I called to catch up. As the phone was passed between each family member we shared greetings until it was finally given to Guza-guz who said

salam nesh Brijet? Wadishalo anchi
(“How are you Bridget? I love you!”)

I was silent in dumbstruck disbelief and I felt my heart soften and ache with guilt that I could be absent from her long enough to let her grow up so suddenly. She was talking in sentences! Saying my name! Professing her love for me! I ended the call with  promises to see it all for myself in a short time and soon enough I was reunited again with my sweet family and my favorite baby. We spent the weekend dancing, cuddling, napping and chasing each other. I have spent more hours holding her and observing her development more than any other infant in my lifetime. Maybe I should blame my age on my growing maternal side. Maybe it’s simply that this girl is so charming that anyone with a pulse would feel as enamored as I do. No matter the rationality, to put it plain and simple I am in love with this sweet child, even if her nick name Guza-guz unfortunately means “diaper”.



Easily I can recall the first week I arrived in Ethiopia, Peace Corps held a panel discussion for my group with more experienced PC volunteers where we could voice our concerns. Many people were worried about language acquisition (worldwide, Amharic is the most difficult language PC volunteers are trained in). In response to our trepidation one volunteer plainly stated “By the time you finish your service in PC Ethiopia you could have conceived a child, given birth to it and taught it to speak. You’re already grown adults, so all you have to do in two years is learn to speak the language.” I remember the silence in the room as we all realized the simple, yet astounding truth of his statement. Low and behold, Guza-guz and I have both acquired sufficient language skills in the last two years. Though our Amharic and Oromiifa vocabularies are more robust than when I arrived 24 months ago, the most profound message we’ve always shared is between our smiles. 



Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Meet my Neighbors: Part I

23 July 2013

This morning, like most, my neighbor Marie, age 3, is crying.

It is 9am and her beloved sister Nani left for school 45 minutes ago. Marie adores her sister and cries when she goes to school every morning & when she leaves after lunch in the afternoon. “My Nani!!!” She wails as if her sister has been taken away never to be seen again. In fact Nani will return home in a few hours, as she does every day. Marie does not seem to notice or find comfort in this pattern.

Nani is very fashionable. Her shoes
 are wearing sunglasses and wings. 

To be fair Marie’s sister Nani is pretty great. She’s a charismatic leader and natural attention hog.
Nani is adorable. Unlike most kids in my town, Nani’s parents keep her clean and well dressed. Frequently she gets her hair done at the salon; weave is braided into her baby hair making it longer with large bouncy curls. It’s sort of an absurd effort since Nani is only 5 years old, but at 5 I was sporting a bowl cut so what do I know.

Several times I’ve caught Nani standing on an overturned carton singing like a pop music sensation to a small audience of neighborhood babies under her age. They children stand mesmerized as Nani shakes her finger and hits all the wrong notes. I blame these kids’ young age for their impressionability, but as I attempt to be discrete peering through the wooden fence I find myself just as guilty for enjoying her performance.




       Every time I go outside Nani and Marie call out “B” repeatedly to
Nani peeking through the fence.
catch my attention as they sit behind the rickety scrap wood that constitutes the fence between our homes. I say “hello”, wave and look their way, but the girls persist as they started without acknowledging I’ve responded at all. “B, B, B, B” It’s a sweet sentiment but after nearly 2 years I’m short on patience. For all their bravado I find it surprising that outside of their home compound neither of the girls will talk to me. I see them at the neighbors’ get-togethers, at the market, in the street or at school and they are both too shy to utter anything or even make eye contact.  All the other neighborhood kids give me hugs and fist bumps when I am in the street except these two.



Badee

23 September 2013

Loomi disappeared 3 months ago. For a few days I was out of town and when I returned to my compound my stomach told me something had happened in my absence. Everyone was normal, quiet and calm, but Loomii didn’t appear at my window or at the spicket to fetch water. I was afraid to know the truth, so I gave it a day of denial before I began inquiring. I went back to her house and called her name, nothing. I found other people on my compound and ask what happened. Their Amharic was dumbed down for me as it was explained “she’s gone, but she will return.” Why?! I couldn’t get the information I needed to understand the severity of the situation. Where did Loomii go and why? Later that morning one of my English speaking neighbors came home so I began to interrogate him. To my horror I had learned that there was an incident which resulted in Loomii being returned to her family nearly 150km away.

It took a long time and different narratives to piece together enough details to construct a coherent story. Many people tried to protect me by not telling me the upsetting truth. They told me bits and pieces, but spent more time assuring me that it was okay and she would return. Ethiopian’s don’t like to upset or distress others. They keep a constant calm demeanor of happiness from morning to evening (unless they are in a bus station, then all bets are off). As a foreigner, they are very unnerved by my emotional side and avoid instigating it at all costs. Not because I’m a sociopath, but because they don’t understand people being emotional outside of wailing at a funeral or fighting for a seat on a bus.

The story goes loosely like this: Loomii’s uncle, her primary care taker, is Muslim, but everyone else she interacts with in Adaba is Christian, either Orthodox or Protestant. She has Christian leanings because she isn’t exposed to much else on a daily basis. In Ethiopia however, to stray from your assigned faith is an enormous act of treason. At 9 years old Loomii doesn’t understand this, she just wants to be normal and enjoy as her peers do. One afternoon Loomii snuck off to the church with her school friend. She didn’t ask for permission or tell anyone that she was leaving. She returned to her irate and belligerent uncle who beat her and took her back to her parents the following day as punishment.

Loomii’s parents live in a remote village outside of a very rural town. There is not a school within a reasonable walking distance from their home; there are not enough basic resources for them to support her. Despite this level of insecurity, her family continues to grow; she is the second oldest of 4 and more siblings are likely to come. Loomii was returned to her family and they sent her oldest brother (11 years) and 2nd youngest brother (4 years) to Adaba to replace Loomii. Loomii’s older brother took her place cooking and cleaning for their uncle in Adaba while the youngest spent his days in a homesick-induced daze.

I approached many people to help me resolve this issue of Loomii’s exile and her unreasonable uncle. It all seemed like an over-produced Disney movie script without the assurance of a fairy godmother or a magical prince to remove her violent uncle. Everyone sympathized with my distress. They agreed that Loomii’s uncle had disturbing behavior but his age classified him as an elder, meaning he is to be respected and left unchallenged by all who are younger. If I were to approach him it could make things worse for Loomii if/when she returned. I spoke to my landlord who permits her uncle to live on his land and who has known him for 30+ years. He agreed to speak with her uncle and demand that Loomii return. So I waited, unable to do more than sit on my hands and keep quiet. Every week I was told she would return in 2 weeks, until one day I was told she would arrive the following day.

For selfish reasons I wanted Loomii back in Adaba. She has many friends who look over her here, she has enough to eat, a good school to attend and she seems happy most of the time. Her uncle is dangerous but she seems capable at delicately walking on eggshells and avoiding trouble. In her home village she can’t go to school, she doesn’t get enough to eat and I worry that she is more vulnerable to harmful cultural practices (FGM, abduction, early marriage, or painful body modifications). Both options are risky, but at least she has options. Loomii’s story doesn’t instigate much sympathy or label her as unusual among Ethiopians. Most kids are disciplined by physical violence at home and at school, many are separated from their families who cannot provide for them, many are kept out of school to work and support their families at a young age. Surprisingly Loomii, compared to some of her peers, has many privileges.

Loomii did return to Adaba. My neighbors told me of her arrival one rainy afternoon as I arrived home. Elated, I ran to her house, slipping through the mud calling her name eagerly. She came to the doorway with a quiet smile, apprehensive to step out in the rain and mud. I picked her up and hugged her as we became drenched in rain and sentiment. Loomii was a bit embarrassed by my enthusiastic display as her uncle had visitors who sat starring at us. To avoid causing any trouble for her, I set her down and asked her to come to my house later that day. When she arrived later we celebrated by playing games with Joe and my friend Ibse and went out on the town with her school director for dinner and coffee. I seemed more shaken by it all than she was. She seemed normal, albeit a little taller, thinner and with newly pierced ears. She told me stories about her family and seemed un-traumatized by the summer’s events.

Through this many people have told me that I should adopt Loomi, an option I have given much consideration to. They reminded me that I seemed to be concerned for her more than anyone else and I’m a privileged American who can provide for her easily in my country, why don’t I take her? While this may be true I have some questions that no one here can seem to answer: WHY am I the one who cares about her more than anyone else, though I’ve known her for less time and can communicate with her the least? WHY is it culturally uncommon for Ethiopians to adopt children outside their family, but encouraged for foreigners who cannot adequately speak or understand the child’s native culture or language? Why do I feel more guilt and responsibility for this young girl than those who have known her longer and more intimately than I? I suppose the only answer to these questions is “cultural values and differences”.

It may afflict me the rest of my life but I do not plan on adopting Loomii. As someone who is still financially depend on her own family, I am not prepared to accept responsibility for a minor nor am I in the position to pay tens of thousands of dollars to complete a successful adoption. I’ve lived in Ethiopia for 2 years, and understand not everything but enough to know that Loomii’s situation is manageable. She’s doing well in school, she’s accustomed to her own culture and meets friends who love and look after her everywhere she goes. I cannot protect Loomii from everything or ensure that she has all of her needs met, but I believe that she is in the position to grow up and do well for herself. While I have lived here I have tried to take actions to improve her situation and feel confident that she is generally happy and will continue her education at least until 8th grade. This is more than most Ethiopian children can hope for.


I also realize that like many experiences I’ve had in Ethiopia, none of this seems like reasonable logic to my acquaintances in the United States. I’ve run out of excuses to mask the complacency and helplessness I feel for Ethiopia’s disturbing customs. I’ve run out of the naivete that everything will work out well in the end. 

Friday, July 26, 2013

Fuel efficient stove coop in action!

24 July 2013

Filling the molds with cement which is pounded down for compaction

Last year I was approached by a representative of a local women’s cooperative who wanted training to learn how to produce fuel efficient stoves. It’s a desirable technology in Ethiopia as traditional 3-stone fires consume a lot of fuel wood leaving Ethiopia at its present state of having lost nearly 90% of natural forest coverage. Additionally, these traditional fires produce a lot of smoke leading to pulmonary issues in women in children; this is common in Africa and is the 2nd largest cause for mortality next to Malaria. Fuel efficient stoves reduce and redirect smoke, use less wood which saves families time and money.

The coop organized themselves by writing a business plan and formalizing themselves through the regional cooperative office. Meanwhile, I wrote a grant to some local NGO’s: FARM Africa and Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) who partnered with us to purchase our raw materials and provide us training. Our fuel stove training was done by FZS who brought 3 experienced women from Dinsho town.. Everyone was consistently punctual and worked really steadily.

Our advertisement in 3 different languages
The coop has 20 members: all women who are unemployed between the ages of 40-70, half of who are illiterate, all mothers with demanding families to feed, clothe and care for. I didn’t know what to expect with this group and I’ll admit I wasn’t initially eager to work with them because I was concerned they wouldn’t appreciate the reality of the opportunity as much as the concept (which I’ve seen with so many other people who approach me about collaborating on projects). My trepidation was quickly dismissed the first day when all women were present and punctual and continued to work 6 hours a day for the next 3 days until we finished. At the end we gave them per-diem for their work and they said they didn’t need to be paid for
learning this skill, so they decided to each donated 60% of their payment to the coop to build capital. My head was spinning I couldn’t believe how motivated and clever these women are! Our next step is to continue purchasing our supplies, build a workshop for our production and hold demonstrations at the weekly market to advertise our product. We’re on the way to something great!


This part diverts the smoke by acting as a chimney (see the advertisement photo)

4 of these parts make up the main wall around the fire

Hauling the cement from the mixing area

Add caption

1 of the walls waiting to dry after the mold is removed.

This piece is the final chimney to divert the smoke and is also used as a "stove burner"
for preparing wat and soup

traditional 3 stone fire

 
Finished Mirt stove. The main fire is covered by a large clay plate
which is used to cook injera, the main staple food of Ethiopia