Thanksgiving Eve

23 November 2011

On the eve of Thanksgiving, in lieu of drooling and developing a stomach or heart ache over gluttonous dreams of a juicy golden-brown turkey, mashed potatoes, salad greens zested with lemon, and a lard ridden pie crust filled with a marvelous combination of fruit, sugar and butter…yummmmm!!… oh yea, in lieu of that I am going to recount why I am thankful and have forgone such calorific comforts this year, and the next 2 for that matter (ouch!)

Ethiopia, despite accusations of being an impoverished nation, has proven to bear much cultural, spiritual and historical wealth. Though it is not my culture or history, I am grateful to be intermingling with those who proudly display their Ethiopian pride.

A fine example national pride is Ethiopian TV, 3 stations broadcasted from, by and to Ethiopians. These channels show news casts from different regions (in the appropriate local tongue) about current events, regional, national and global. Another highlight are the dramas, which are so popular that 2 times a week, for an hour each, nearly 70 million Ethiopians suddenly seem to vanish. Due to my inadequate language skills I am still at a loss as to the story line, but even if I could understand the dialogue there is so much muttering, crying and jaw dropping that not much conversation even makes it in the script.  Best of all, Etv has music videos from Ethiopian artists. Twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week there is at least one channel playing music videos. Each of the 9 regions in Ethiopia has distinct rhythms, language, dance style, dress and landscape (which makes up the background).

 Up north in Tigray, the rhythm is expressed primarily in the shoulders which pop up, down, back and forth like synchronized seizures. Women’s hair is loose in the back and intricately braided in the front  with two small brained running across the forehead horizontally, like an upside down T. Women’s’ white cotton dresses catch the breeze as the men dance around them with as their protectors. In the background landscape dry scrublands and treacherous mountainous are tamed by camel herds marching slowly in front of 900 year old rock-hewn churches.

 Down south in Oromia (where I will be) the dancing gets a little crazier. In addition the swift shoulder swagger, leg movement and head banging ala Africa are included. Men sometimes wear the dark mane of an Abyssinia Lion around their own head; as if they were some man-lion hybrid with refined music taste and an eye for beautiful habassha women. The Oromo videos are often shot in pastures roaming or being plowed by livestock while the dramatic mountains responsible for the creation of The Rift Valley lie ominously in the background.

These music videos have yet to lose me as a captive audience member, after 7 weeks of watching ETV I have yet to see the same video twice. I realize the videos are planned and shot with a creative director behind a camera, but I am nearly convinced that walking alone someday I am just as likely to encounter wild baboons as I am to find a rhythmic group of well dressed Ethiopians dancing and singing as they collect a modest herd of befuddled sheep.  Already, most of my volunteer group has seen baboons, so considering their luck it should be any day now that I take off on a hike and find myself involuntarily becoming a backup dancer. Ohhh Ethiopian TV, thank you for your bizarre and informative news reports, melodramatic soap operas and over-sized collection of music videos which allow me to travel Ethiopia without leaving my couch. 

Additionally, cheers to all the strangers who have crossed the street to greet me, or given me the gift of a smile or a warm embrace. Even though at times I was reluctant to return the sincerity, your persistence has taught me to be more gracious and learn that Ethiopian culture spares no one when it comes to random acts of kindness. In retrospect, how astounding is it that absolute strangers want to shake my hand and ask me how my day is or if Ethiopia has been good to me? Whenever I am the first to greet someone, never have I been ignored. In some areas, it doesn’t take more than an initial “good afternoon, how are you today?” to get an invitation to someone’s home for coffee and a snack. Mr. Roger’s neighborhood has nothing on any given rural town in Ethiopia.

A warm “thank you” for whoever decided that Oromyifa should change to Latin script. Unfortunately, my fellow Peace Corps trainees who are learning Amharic and Tigrinya are not so lucky, fidel script unanimously is the bane of their existence. As for me and 3 others, we are progressing quickly and competently in Oromyifa. Another highlight of the language is that much of it reminds me of what the Ninja Turtles probably spoke before being translated to English for better listening by America’s youth. Some tubular examples of this include: “daawwachuu” (to watch), “kaawwachuu” (to put on), or “yeroo baayee” (most of the time). As my fluency improves I intend to work on my Raphael accent as the final touch.

Though this isn’t an exhaustive list, I wish not to bore any reader audience I have remaining. So to finish, I am grateful for my friends who have shared their support through letters (Sunshine, Julie and Stasia!), e-mail and blog posts. It is nice to feel as though I am not too far from those I love at home. Most importantly, and impressive is my family who has been so determined to be stay in contact that they have mastered the high-tech 21^st century knowledge of skype and rebtel.com. Even my beloved 84 year old grandma has called me on my cell phone from her computer to remind me that refined sugar is delicious, snow is beautiful and I am still her favorite granddaughter. My dad and Barbara also call at least once and send me text a few times a week which spark me awake and keep me smiling the whole day through. Even now, I am beaming as I recall those who have stayed close despite my being so far away. Your love helps me strengthen my desire to be a great volunteer in Ethiopia. If I can’t be in the pleasure of your company, then I am certainly going to make the most of my time here to improve the lives of others. As you can tell, mine has already been dramatically enriched. I am obliged, indebted and more motivated than ever.